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TTR250 Group here
DISCLAIMER: The modifications described in the following text are for educational purposes only. In no way do I recommend that you apply these modifications to your own motorcycle. If you do choose to go ahead and modify your motorcycle based on the information in this document you will accept all responsibility for your own actions. The author(s) of this FAQ and host(s) providing it for you accept no responsibility whatsoever. If you are unqualified to make any of the changes described herein but are bent on doing the modification, seek out a knowledgeable friend or professional mechanic for assistance.
Pre-Y2K (white) models including differences between Open Enduro and Raid models*Revised August 2013
Y2K (blue) models*Revised February 2016
What's a TTR worth?*Revised February 2016
What should I look out for when buying a TTR?*Revised March 2009
Uncorking the TTR250 * Revised June 2007
Fuel tank options for blue TTR250s * Revised February 2016
Dating a TTR from its frame number * Revised February 2016
Chain & sprocket information*Revised February 2016
Handlebars and levers *Revised February 2016
Can I convert the digital speedo from kph to mph?*Revised February 2016
More speedo information*Revised February 2016
What tyres and tubes are best for on and off road use?*September 2010
Can I get a big-bore kit for the TTR?*Revised May 2010
Can I fit an oil cooler?*Revised February 2016
Can (i) I change my metal tank for a plastic one or (ii) can I get a bigger tank for Desert Rallies etc? * Revised October 2009
Improving the headlight, cheap replacement bulb option and installing an on/off switch. * Revised February 2016
Can I get second-hand parts for my TTR? * Revised June 2010
Can I modify the exhaust to improve power?*Revised July 2010
Carburettor setup, jets & needles + problems arising after storage*Revised February 2016
What brake pads fit? *Revised November 2011
Fitting rear brake pads, brake discs/rotor information and caliper part numbers *Revised February 2012
Oil changing* Revised October 2013
Can I get a bash plate and frame guards for my TTR?* Revised February 2016
Need a grab handle for your blue TTR? * Revised February 2016
Batteries *Revised August 2015
Kick-start kits * Revised October 2013
Starter motors * Revised February 2016
Replacing the one-way starter bearing or sprag clutch * Revised October 2013
Clutch plate information*Revised September 2011
Fork Seal and head stem bearing inspection or replacement* Revised July 2014
Spark Plugs*Revised October 2011
How can I lower the TTR250? * Revised January 2011
Where can I get a manual?*Revised February 2016
Wheel bearings and seal details * Revised April 2011
Clutch inhibitor switch replacement and other safety switches* Revised August 2013
Suspension* Revised July 2016
Installing a Scott's Steering Damper on a '99
Clogging of front sprocket on white TTRs
Smarten up your TTR! *Revised February 2016
TTR250 - Street Legal in California?
Got a brand new TTR?*Revised March 2005
Specification comparisons *Revised November 2014
Further TTR links *Revised February 2016
A little extra pressie at Xmas?
The TTR250 has an air-cooled, 4 stroke, 4 valve, DOHC single with electric start, six (fairly close ratio) speed gearbox and disc brakes front and rear. Owners tend to be very enthusiastic about the model and justifiably so. I am one such enthusiast and when I first got my TTR I struggled to find any information on it - hence this FAQ developed. I am now on my third TTR (a new 2004 model) and still think they are the best all-round trail bike around! I live in Devon, a County in the beautiful South West of the UK, which has an abundance of unsurfaced roads also known by trail riders in the UK as "green lanes".
Overall the TTRs are very well made with some nice touches like decent chain guards, chunky spokes, solid-looking alloy swing-arm on the Open Enduro models, engine oil sight-glass, big diameter stainless steel header pipe, hand-adjustable rear damping and, on the blue models, a plastic tank and back-up kickstart. Starts well and has a quiet smooth engine with a light clutch and lots of low-down torque. The gears are nice and close and give relatively brisk acceleration in the lower gears and, by the time you get to 6th, you have a proper high road gear. Very comfortable to ride with quite firm and well-damped suspension. The engine is quite sophisticated for an air-cooled lump and incorporates a pumper carb. Yamaha have thoughtfully routed the carb breather pipes up over the airbox and have one-way valves on the drain pipes which prevents cutting out in deep water.
The road legal version was available in the UK between 2003 and 2005 and Yamaha UK officially imported approximately 781 units.
TTR250s are particularly suitable for those starting out on trail riding. They are not too tall (and lowering links are readily available for those with a short inside leg) and have the all-important electric start. Having taken out a lot of "newbies" trail riding, an electric start can make the difference between exhaustion and an enjoyable experience as, invariably, there will be lots of stalling and perhaps a few gentle offs. Four strokes in particular don't like going horizontal - restarting without an electric start can be difficult.
The TTR handles beautifully off-road and can be chucked into bends and flicked around in an impressive manner. It also tracks very nicely through, and across, ruts. The suspension is very good and absorbs bumps and roots really well but doesn't wallow or bottom out on the bigger whoops.
In areas where there is quite a bit of
roadwork to be covered between the lanes, the six-speed box comes into its own.
Yamaha WRs, Honda CRFs etc all suffer from being buzzy on the road because they
have only five gears. The TTR's all-day comfy seat is an added bonus when
compared to the razor-like planks that pass for seats on some off-road bikes.
|Yamaha TT250R (4GY1)||1993 / 4|
|Yamaha TT250R Raid (4GY3)||1994 / 3|
|Yamaha TT250R (4RR1)||1995 / 3|
|Yamaha TT250R Raid (4GY5)||1995 / 4|
|Yamaha TT250R Raid (4WA1)||1996 / 3|
|Yamaha TT250R (4RR2)||1997 / 1|
Pre-Y2K (white) models. There are basically two models: the Open Enduro and
the Raid. The TTR is a very
civilised traillie that the UK Trail Bike and Enduro Magazine (TBM) described as being "as civilised as it is
competent". Only a handful of TTRs was imported into the UK back in 1995 by
Mitsui Yamaha and were never classed as "official" imports. They seem not to have sold well - not because they weren't good bikes -
but because of what was described as an "exorbitant" price tag at the
time of £4,000 plus.
There seemed to be a lot of imports between 1993 and 1995 (usually white plastics
and metal tanks) after which there seems to be a gap until the new
"blue" TTR (plastic tanks) became available and sold officially by
Yamaha in the UK. Some
of the common parts are interchangeable with other makes of offroaders, e.g. brake pads, but
the gel battery is peculiar to the TTR.
The Open Enduro model has a well specified suspension set-up with adjustable units front and rear. The very capable quick-steering front end has a leading axle and air-damped forks with over 10" of travel. The rear has Yamaha's own rising rate monoshock with a remote reservoir that allows adjustment for both compression and rebound damping and about 10" of travel as for the front forks. It has a steel box section frame with a heavy duty ally swing arm and distinctive purple anodised wheel rims which you either love or hate! The engine thrives on revs but has enough bottom end to plonk along at low revs and still pull cleanly from nothing. Quoted at 28bhp @ 8,500rpm
differences between the Raid and Open Enduro models:
· the tank is larger on the Raid hence if you fill it right up its going to add weight over and above that of the OE
· the headlight assembly on the Raid is more suitable for road or use on night trials but it is a fairly hefty (4lbs weight compared to 1lb 4oz of the OE plastic unit) item with a mild steel protection bar
· the Raid doesn't have adjustable rear compression damping i.e. "Hard-Soft" clicker adjustment on the rear shock "reservoir whereas most OEs have them
· the Raid’s side panels are more like “pods” - there is a useful plastic box under the left hand one containing the tool kit
· chain size and gearing is different with a 520 on the Open Enduro and a 428 on the Raid
· the rear sub frame is also different as are the seat layouts – the Raid seat is lower (about 35” off the ground compared to the OE’s 36.25”) and flatter. It’s designed for more sat down, long distance work but is a lot better than the OE if you want to carry a passenger
· rear footpegs on the Raid are mounted separately onto the sub frame and on the Open Enduro are small alloy ones mounted direct to the subframe.
· the Raid swing arm is steel - it is alloy on other TTR models
· Spec. for OE is on this FAQ
Y2K (blue) models.
Since about 2000 all new TTRs have had blue "YZ" plastics and plastic tanks.
They are based on the Open Enduro version rather than the Raid. The front
forks have air valves for adjusting the spring rate and a damping adjusting
screw for adjusting the damping force. The rear shock has the usual spring
reload adjustment, rebound damping force adjusting dial and a compression
damping force adjusting knob.
The TTR250 is well known in Australia for having won national enduro championships!
The models sold in Europe have electric and kick start as standard making them "dual start" as well as having revised (quicker) steering geometry and suspension. The TTRs that were supplied to the USA are ONLY electric start. The TTR250 was still available new in Australia (and the frame changed to black) until 2012. It was also dual start!
How much should I pay for a TTR250?
In the UK, older "white" TTRs resell for between £800 and £1,400 with blue models in good condition costing £1,800 upwards. New TTRs are no longer available in the UK. The TTR250 was still an "official" import into Australia/NZ until 2012.
Two freebie mods to start with:
1. Look under the tank at your throttle linkage and you will notice that Mr Yamaha installs a stop screw that limits you to less than full throttle. Adjust the screw to allow full travel of the throttle linkage but to stop it just before the throttle slide hits the top of the carb. Some riders take the screw completely out but I wouldn't recommend that.
2. If you haven't got a US model, remove the exhaust restrictor in the rear of the header pipe - details farther down. If you have got a US model, remove the screw at the end of the exhaust and pull out the baffle but don't do this if you ride where there are spark arrestor laws. Both of these will allow your bike to breathe a little better.
The next will cost you a small amount:
1. Replace the stock filter with an aftermarket filter like that from Twin Air.
2. Pull the rubber snorkel out of the top of the air box ONLY if you don't ride through deep water! Some owners recommend just trimming the snorkel by cutting it back one rung at the top and two rungs in the air box itself.
3. Rejet the bike to suit.
4. Replace the standard front sprocket with a 13 tooth one - this will improve the TTR's acceleration and off-road capabilities greatly without hampering top speed overmuch.
Performance gains will be obvious. The thing you will notice most is that the engine will accelerate quicker. If you ride at high altitude, and don't have water crossings to worry about, then, in addition to removing the snorkel, you may consider cutting holes in the top of the air box but just make sure you rejet to suit.
The next will cost you a lot more:
Replace the standard silencer with an aftermarket one. This adds power and gives a significant weight saving. If trail riding in the UK (or any other sensitive area in the world) please make sure your replacement is a quiet one! We don't want to lose our trails and green lanes just to gain a bit of power and sound cool.
See this excellent thread by Aaron Cooper from the ThumperTalk forum which explains it all in more detail and with pics:
STOP PRESS - Aaron updated his "sticky" on ThumperTalk on 25 June 2007 with new links for the jets etc. Thanks Aaron - it is a super-helpful resource for TTR250 owners looking for a bit more power.
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Fuel tank options for blue TTR250s
Many thanks to Al Moore for the information!
Acerbis 22lt TTR250 model - but very rare. In the UK try Rally and Overland.
Nomad rear tank options, 4.5lt up to 8lt.
Custom fitting of the Honda XR250/400 and or 600/650 after-market tanks.
Nomad “bum” tank 8lt. Good points - to have a separate fuel supply if the bike has a big fall crash etc. Bad points - it removes the option for a pillion, pilot cannot slide back to the rear of the seat on the longer road rides, and or rear rack, adds weight over the rear sub frame and raises the centre of gravity as well as weighting the left side of the bike (not to noticeable)
17lt (Honda XR250/400) IMS tank. Good points - an extra 7+ lts of fuel, tank is not too wide so does not change the feel of the bike to much. Bad points - needs to have fair bit of mucking about to get the bolts at the front to line up, and seat needs to be reshaped to fit up neat.
23lt (Honda XR650) Acerbis made tank. Good points - loads of fuel, (I get 500+km with 15/42 sprockets), fits straight up to the TTR mount points (using Honda brackets and Yamaha bolts), not too wide although wide enough to have knees resting 'perfectly' for me on the longer rides, two fuel cocks, if one side damaged close it off and run from the other. Will take an Acerbis Locking cap for security concerns (I have found it does not vent very well and requires a little release every hour or so for the pressure to escape). Bad points - quite a lot of weight when full, and mates tend to hassle you for fuel when your way out there.... :-))
Links below that I have come across, thought this might be helpful:
What should I look out
for when buying a TTR?
Generally not a lot goes wrong on one which has been maintained well. The electronic speedo on the "white" models is very expensive so is an obvious item to check. Also, electric starters and sprag clutches can be expensive items to replace so check that all sounds OK - especially listen out for the dreaded bang when killing the motor. Otherwise, its the usual four stroke checks (see my comprehensive buyer's checklist ) plus take it on a good run to check handling, clutch, controls, etc.
On metal-tanked bikes, check that the bottom corners of the tank aren't too rusted where they rub against the seat. This wears the paint off and allows moisture to sit against the tank and rust it away.
If the mud flap that protects the rear shock has been damaged (and whose hasn't?) , check that the shock is working as they can lose damping if the damper rod gets pitted with corrosion.
Dating a TTR from its frame number
The frame number is the vehicle identification number or "VIN." The 10 digit of
the VIN for any vehicle manufactured after 1980 identifies the year of
manufacture. The VIN is located on the steering stem of the frame and is not to
be confused with the engine serial number on the engine cases. The VIN is 17
Open Enduro 4GY1 4GY-000101 to 025000 is 1993/4
Raid 4GY3 4GY-025101 to 044000 is 1994/5
Open Enduro 4RR1 4GY-049101 to 068000 is 1995/6
Raid 4GY5 4GY-068101 to 081000 is 1995/6
Raid 4WA1 4GY-081101 to 083000 is 1996/7
Open Enduro 4RR2 possibly 4GY-083101 to ???000 is 1997/?
000101 was released in the 4th month of 1993
025101 3rd month of 1994
049101 3rd month of 1995
068101 4th month 1995
081101 3rd month 1996
083101 1st month 1997
Apparently the Haynes manual shows:
1999 models - frame no. begins with 5GF2
2000 models - JYACG07W - YA002045 and JYACG7Y - YA000309
My 2002 has frame number JYADG02XXYA002881
My 2004 has frame number JYADG02X74A007241
Spare 2004 has frame number JYADG02X00008462
It has been suggested that, from the year 2000, the 10th digit denotes year of manufacture but that doesn't always seem to work. If true my "2002" TTR was manufactured 2 years before it was registered! See the table below:
Chain & sprocket info plus what gearing
to use on an Open Enduro for trail riding?
13-48 or 14-52 gearing is a good on & off road compromise.
Standard on "whites" was 14-44. My 2002 blue Euro import came with 13-48 and a spare 14 front sprocket in the "spares" box.
Front sprocket - Renthal part number is 342A-520-13 or 14 or 15 (assuming you are running a 520 O ring chain which I hope you are!) or Talon TG415 13T or 14T. Talon may also do the 15T.
Rear sprocket - Renthal part number for the Ultra-Lite rear sprocket is 131B-520-48 for 48 tooth - substitute 52 for 52 tooth.
Chain. The 520R3-108 chain is a decent quality Renthal 108 link chain which fits my 13-48 sprocket combination exactly. I think 112 is needed for the 14-52 combo.
An alternative chain as used by ToroTrail is a Tsubaki MX Alpha MX O Ring Chain ref 520MXA-118.
Renthal sprockets and chains are available in the UK from B&C Express 01522 791369 email email@example.com
Also see the selection of chains and sprockets at Totally TTRs
The thread on the retaining nut is RH and doesn't need to be excessively tight as it should have a lock washer which has two tabs so it can be used twice. This needs to have the tab bent back with a blunt chisel or similar before you can undo the nut. In the UK we have something called "Sod's Law" which says that the only time you will break the last good tab off the lock washer is when your local bike shop is closed for a week! I wouldn't advise trying to re-use a tab that has already been bent. They aren't expensive so keep a couple of spares just in case - either from here or from your Yamaha parts dealer Part Number 90215-23265-00
To undo the nut (anti-clockwise!), I just put a socket between the sprocket and the frame to stop the sprocket turning. The bigger front sprocket is easier on the chain. Chain noise increases when you replace the original Yamaha sprocket with a plain one as the original has a substantial ring of rubber built in to quieten things down.
Any bigger back sprocket than 48 may need the bottom chain guide modifying although I fitted a 52 with no problems. In the UK, Totally TTRs stock part 45-791, the chain bottom guide block which fits the "two bolt" UK system. US models come as standard with a bigger rear sprocket (52?) and therefore already have the deeper guide block.
Standard gear ratios are:
Leaking oil from sprocket seal? The seal size is 25x40x6 and the seals are available cheaply from Totally TTRs (see here) as well as your friendly local Yamaha dealer!
Handlebars and levers
As a six footer, I found the original handlebars a little cramped and they didn't encourage me to get up on the pegs. I fitted Renthal Enduro High bars (previously known as Dakar Highs) and they are a lot better for me. However, it is likely that you will need longer throttle and clutch cables especially if you also fit bar risers. Venhill has made up a batch of longer throttle and clutch cables for the TTR - available here.
Levers. Levers are swappable between OE, Raid and blue models. They are often listed for sale on eBay or copy levers which fit well are available in the UK here.
Can I convert the digital speedo from kph to mph?
For the digital speedos, there is now a clever device called the SpeedoDRD that not only converts from kph to mph (and the other way around) but also allows accurate corrections for different gearing to get the speedo reading nearly 100% right.
The blue Euro TTRs have analogue kmh speedos driven by cable from the front wheel. The UK "official" machines have an mph speedo!
More speedo information:
a) What do the blue and red buttons do on the digital speedo?
The blue button switches between two trip gauges so can record two different distances. If you hold down the blue (A/B) button for a few seconds it switches the display from the clock function to the overall mileage function and back again.
The red button is reset and if you hold it down for a while, about a minute, when the clock is displayed you can set the clock when it is flashing. The hours will flash first and you push quickly the reset button to change them, then push A/B or blue button to go to minutes and set minutes the same. Then just press A/B again to go back to normal display.
b) Digital speedo sender unit - this is often the cause of a "dead" speedo - it was with mine. Replacement for "white" TTRs is Yamaha part number sender unit 4GY-83755-01 - priced at £119.98 inc. VAT plus P&P as at October 2010.
c) Another problem on digital speedos is that the magnet located on the front sprocket can disintegrate - part number 4GY-8354W-00. Replacement inc. VAT is £70.04 as at February 2016. To make a replacement magnet look here.
e) If you have terminal speedo problems Paul Bates suggests fitting a WR400 speedo drive unit and cable direct on to a DT125 clock, fits straight on apparently - no need to worry about gearing change and km to miles - fits like a glove no hassle he says. Alternatively, Clifford Eves said "After having problems with my digital speedo, and not wanting to pay a fortune for a new pick up sensor, I decided to convert it to cable. Just in case anyone else wants to do this I used a speedo drive, speedo and cable from a DT125LC. It all went straight on - just had to make a bracket for the speedo itself and all for £20.00 from eBay"
f) For mechanical speedos, as fitted to UK blue models, Yamaha only sells the speedo drive mechanism in one piece (part number 4PX-25190) - price inc VAT is a whopping £79.79 plus VAT as at February 2016! But it is usually only the three-tab "drive" washer that fails and these are no longer available separately. However a stainless steel after-market tab washer is available from Totally TTRs. The speedo cable from a DT125LC Mk3 is apparently a very good (and cheap!) replacement for the original.
and tubes are best for on and off road use?
MT43s do it for me! In my opinion, the ideal for UK (muddy and stony) trail riding is probably something knobbly (but road legal) such as a Michelin Comp IV on the front and a trials tyre such as the 4.00x18 Pirelli MT43 on the rear. A word of warning - the MT43 is quite a "tall" tyre and is liable to chew your mudflap and swing arm if you don't give it enough room. Other riders views on tyre choice follow:
Pat Bullen says "After a season's use I can recommend Trelleborgs Army Specials as long lasting, very grippy and suits the TTR's steering geometry well- quite forgiving in ruts for some reason..."
Ian Packer says - Bridgestone TW301 & TW302: Work excellently on road and fine for off road trailing in dry or wet hard conditions. However the tread is too close for deep glutinous mud which will fill them and not get thrown out - they turn into slicks. Still usable on trails provided care taken in mud. Wear rates are very good.
Michelin Enduro comp 3 & comp 4: Excellent for muddy ruts and loose sloppy conditions. Throws the mud out well and grips well and predictably in all conditions. Soft compound so high wear rates on hard surfaces. Feel horrible on road particular above 60 mph. Perfect tyre for the British winter off road.
Brian Morris (Thailand) says "Fitted a set of Bridgestone ED 660 /661 at Christmas 2004 . They are DOT approved . Both tires have very good grip in most conditions but back tire wore very quickly and have had to replace already. Front tire is still perfect ."
Some recent recommendations include the Michelin AC10 - a road legal MX tyre. Apparently good in mud, and with the large blocks, will last a long time. Down side is that you will not be able to do UK rallies on them as they are illegal for most rally and enduro use.
Fitting Ultra Heavy Duty Michelin inner tubes
(4mm thick!) helps prevent punctures but they have to be run at relatively high
pressure to make them "fill" the tyre so they don't move and rip the valve out. Also, use good rim locks to prevent the
tyres spinning on the rims and ripping the valves out e.g. Talon forged 1.60
front and 2.15 rear.
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Can I get a big-bore kit for the TTR? Plus some tuning information....
comprehensive 325 kit is available from
who sell big bore kits for a wide range of dirt bikes. I have fitted the kit to
my 2004 TTR and it transforms its performance. Nothing beats extra ccs for some
extra performance. The kit has so far proved totally reliable and the TTR is a
joy to ride both on the trail and on the road.
See this excellent thread by Bryan Wedmore from the ThumperTalk forum which explains about fitting the kit in more detail and has some helpful pics. Thanks Bryan - it is a very helpful resource for TTR250 owners looking for a bit more power and better front suspension: http://www.thumpertalk.com/forum/showthread.php?t=521772
is a cheaper alternative to get a few extra ccs but it doesn't compare to going
the big bore route! The Wiseco "280" kit which is basically a new oversize forged piston taking it
to 263cc (NOT 280cc!) and involves boring of cylinder liner only with
no crankcase alterations. A mate of Lance Parsons did it and says it results in
more bhp and torque and says he can pull wheelies in 4th gear (13-52 gearing) -
he also fitted a 35mm carb and got more bhp & acceleration - had his exhaust
ports bored out by Phil Manning, and again got more bhp and quicker pick up.
I fit an oil cooler?
Yamaha used to sell an oil cooler kit - part number YAM-4GY-WO793-00 - cost $285 Australian at the beginning of 2002 but this has now been discontinued but you may be lucky and find some new old stock or a second-hand one from a breakers yard. The kit came with everything you needed and could be installed in about an hour. The hardest part was removing the clutch cover to replace an existing blanking bolt with a 10mm longer one to blank off the internal oilway and divert the oil around radiator part of the cooler - see photograph. The kit even came with a new clutch cover gasket. You get about 1/2 litre more oil capacity and prolongs the life of the oil dramatically. Anybody with basic tools and mechanical knowledge can do it. Some good advice is to fit a bash plate to protect the oil lines which run from the crankcase to the radiator.
Can I (i) change my
metal tank for a plastic one or (ii) get a bigger tank for
Desert Rallys etc?
(i) Yes - according to Alev Bill you can install a blue plastic or an Acerbis or even a
XR250/400 tank. All you need some modification. Two metal plates bolted on the
front engine mount would do it. Thanks Alev!
(ii) Yes again - Acerbis do a 22 litre plastic tank.
There is a thread on the TTR250 forum which may be helpful - see here.
A selection of replacement bulbs, guaranteed to fit the TTR original units, is available here.
For Open Enduro - consider fitting the whole headlamp assembly from a Raid which is designed for roadwork and has a 60/55W bulb (part number 2F9-84314-00) compared to the Open Enduro's 33/36.5W (part number 3FW-84314-00). I fitted a Raid headlight assembly to my OE TTR and the difference was amazing. The lighting coil on the TTR produces a healthy output and can run a 100W H4 halogen bulb as it has a glass lens that can handle the heat of the bulb. The standard headlight switch and wires may get very hot running the bigger bulb and it may be worth using heavier gauge wires from the switch to the headlamp.
For blue models - there is very little that can be done to improve the UK headlight although it can be replaced with the European or Australian unit which has a bigger lens and bulb and gives a much brighter beam. Some owners have fitted an LED bulb with good results but the aim of the beam is a bit haphazard and probably wouldn't pass an MOT test.
Quick fix for a blown original bulb! A new headlight bulb for the Raid is a whopping £53 inc VAT from your Yamaha dealer and £33.90 for the Open Enduro - prices as at July 2011. A quick fix is to take the bulb holder out with pliers - buy a £3 car headlight bulb and bend the tabs flat. Attach the wires and hold the bulb in place with Silicon sealer. The light is brighter and a lot cheaper!
For the blue TTRs, the headlight bulb is a BA20d - Type #395 - Ring model RMU394. A halogen 35w/35w replacement is designated H6M and these are also used on
Headlight, Tail Light and Instrument Illumination ON/OFF Switch Installation If you don't like the "headlight always on" then fit a simple switch and splice it into the yellow and black wires just by the left hand bar switch.
Can I modify the exhaust to improve power?
On most non-US models there is a restrictor in the header - where the header
slides inside the silencer - see
Removing this will help with mid and top end power. Just cut off the last 10mm
of the header pipe and the restrictor will come off with it.
Pictures were in Mark Williams' most excellent TTR article in
- Sept. 2004 edition, #109. If anybody wants a copy, they can buy a back issue
from 0208 903 3993.
(b) Martin Wilson's TTR had an XR400 exhaust on his TTR when he bought it. The mounting brackets all line up, it just requires a small adapter pipe between the tail pipe and the header pipe.
(c) In a Side Track magazine article in the series "Modifying your TTR250" it is recommended NOT to completely remove the snorkel as that reduces power but, instead, to cut it back one rung at the top and two rungs in the air box itself - that mod plus a Staintune exhaust gave them a 10% - approx 2bhp - increase in power.
The October 1999 edition of the US Motocross Action magazine reported that a
free flowing end can add power (and significantly reduces weight over the stock
item) but a larger bore header pipe did not! Shortening the existing header by
5" however produced 2bhp extra on the dyno. Not something within most owners
capabilities though! New "shorty" pipes are occasionally available from
All TTR250s seem to use the Teikei Y30P with pump.
It is possible to re-jet the carb using Kiehin jets. What to use depends on what year your TTR is.
The information I was given some time ago was that early TTRs were 142 main jet and 48 pilot jet though from about 96/97 the main jet was a 147 and pilot was a 50. ("50" pilot jet is 43F-14342-25-00, "54" pilot jet is 43F-14342-27 and presumably the "52" pilot jet is 43F-14342-26-00 - about £16 each in UK).
At least one UK owner has a 96 Open Enduro with 137 main and 50 pilot jets - very confusing! However, the carbs on the blue UK/Euro TTRs I have stripped all had 147 main and 50 pilot jets and I understand that Australian TTRs have the same. US TTRs seem to have 137/50 jets.
The Raid model usually has a 145/50 jet combination and a V95 nozzle.
Johnny Davies TTR (see above) was a later model so he found a local carb specialist that did Kiehin carbs, took in his main jet and needle jet and they tried a standard round Kiehin main jet and it fitted perfectly. They measured his original jet and it was 1.47mm (apparently different makes of jets don't always mean that the no. on the jet is the size in mm) and suggested trying a 148mm, 150mm, and 152mm (Kiehin). Johnny tried them all (about £3.00 each) 148 no difference, 150 spot on, 152 too rich (like running with the choke on). Johnny has left the snorkel off the air box and has the needle on the standard position. He is looking at different needles at the moment, also he has left the mixture screw at 3.5 turns out compared to standard 2.25. The firm he used is:
Allens Performance Ltd, Unit B9, Moorbridge Road, Bingham, Notts, NG13 8GG - tel. no. 01949 836733, fax. 01949 836734
You should get better power throughout the range.
Yamaha used to provide a wide
range of jets for the TTR but, over the years, most have been withdrawn. Those
that are still listed are available
Bike Bandit in the US can supply Keihin and Mikuni carb jets.
Goellner says "The small Mikuni hex sized ones don't come in half sizes but just
full sizes however the large round ones ( N100.604 )do come in half sizes like
(142.5). I used this type and know for sure that they will fit although it's a
pretty tight fit. With the stock exhaust and only the silencer removed (still
has the spark arrestor screen), the large
type Mikuni #140 jet with the needle in the stock position works great at 600 ft. elevation. It adds a little more punch for about $5.00. Also, I've done nothing to the air box, it's completely stock and unaltered."
The 140 Mikuni jet is equivalent to a Dynojet/ Yamaha OEM 149.3 - see http://vmaxoutlaw.com/tech/dyno-mikuni.htm
More information on personalising your TTR and "uncorking" some power - see this posting on Thumpertalk at http://tinyurl.com/mvntl which has some useful pics and links courtesy of Aaron Cooper.
Problems with carburation after long-term storage & non-use. Geoff Denham" says: I have a 2001 TTR250 (North American version). I had cold starting and idle problems. I found out that the previous owner had stored the bike for 2 years without draining the fuel from the carb. I then discovered why he hadn't drained the carb - the Philips head of the drain screw was stripped such that no screw driver could turn it. The jets in the carb. were blocked up with residue from the evaporated fuel, and the throttle pump diaphragm had become hard (long term storage). I removed the carb. from the engine and had it overhauled by the Yamaha dealer. In most cases it maybe just gummed up jets. Check to see if you can drain the carb. If your drain screw's head is stripped, have the carb. overhauled. Removing the carb can be quite a big job if the air box is removed first. If you do this, take careful note of the connections and routing of the various rubber hoses connected to the carb. Its a good idea to thoroughly clean the inside of the hoses and their one way valves etc. You should download the Yamaha service manual, I found it very helpful. I should have added, after I had removed the carb, I also removed the rubber intake manifold and refitted it with an application of a high temperature sealing compound. All this effort was rewarded with new bike starting, idle, and general good manners. As in this case of my low mileage bike, such results assume there are no other significant engine problems. if you're having problems starting, it might be time to check your valve clearances. 25 April 2007
Carb drain screw. If you trail ride where you go through fords and water-filled ruts then make sure that your carb drain screw undoes easily in case you get water in the carb. The Philips-style head on these strip out easily so use the best-fitting screwdriver you have. Make sure that you have the carb body held firm so that you can put pressure on the screwdriver to prevent it jumping out of the slots. If it goes wrong, see a repair thread on the TTR250 forum here. New drain screw sets available here.
Carburation problems? Check the rubber inlet manifold between the carb and the cylinder head as it may have come apart. The aluminium part that bolts to the head is tapered so gluing the rubber back on isn't easy. When the rubber comes adrift it sucks air into the engine upsetting the fuel/air ratio and causes poor running. It's also a very common fault and I've seen it on 2003 models. To glue the rubber back on you will need to remove the airbox, carb and inlet stub. Then clean it as best you can with a solvent that evaporates - meths, acetone etc. Then use an epoxy adhesive to coat the stub and push the rubber back on. Clamp end-to-end and put a jubilee clip (hose clip) around the glued area but not too tight. When the glue has dried (24 hrs is good) drive a couple of self-tapping screws through the jubilee clip, through the rubber and into the aluminium stub. If you're fussy, Dremel the ends of the screws inside the inlet stub.
What brake pads fit?
TTR250 brakes - rear same as Serow, KDX200/250, YZ250, Djebel 200/250, front same as TS200 and RMX250. Part numbers by manufacturer as follows with rear given first: Apico BP100 and BP002, Vesrah VD432/2 and VD340, EBC FA152TT and FA135, SBS SBS648 and SBS SBS611, Ferodo FDB659 and FDB497, Dunlop DP315 and DP211.Good parts shops should have sets in stock but any dealer with a "Hi level" account can get them next day if not in stock. EBC Sintered Pads - Front FA135R and RearFA152/2R, they are listed in the ORO catalogue as the same as the ORO gold pad 211CC/SM and 315CC/SM.
I personally use the sintered pads as they seem to work well on and off road and last a sensible amount of time - see Totally TTRs.
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Front brake caliper piston seals are 3JD-W0047-00 and the rear is are 3JD-W0047-50 - see here
Oil changing. The oil filter is a common off-the-shelf Yamaha part - the Yamaha Part No is 1UY-13440-02-00.
The filters most commonly found for sale on the internet are HiFlo. The mesh style ones are HF142 and the paper ones are HF141. The best I have found are the Filtrex filters - see here.
1 litre of oil is needed
for the metal-tanked models and
litres for the later plastic-tanked TTRs - unless you have a oil cooler on then it maybe a little
Lance Parsons was advised to use a semi-synthetic oil and uses Castrol GPS "Extreme Protection at High Temperature Semi-Synthetic 4 Stroke Motor Cycle Oil" which claims to be "an advanced semi-synthetic 4 stroke engine oil formulated to maintain a tough renewing layer of protection for bikes ridden hard. Castrol GPS provides excellent wet clutch performance and consumption control". Lance changes his oil every 1,000km but that's down to you to decide. If you have just driven a hard 3.5hr Hare & Hounds then I would probably advise changing it!
I use Fuchs Silkolene
Super 4 10W-40 semi-synthetic oil.
Haynes Manual Recommended lubricants for Engine/Transmission are: Type: API grade SE or SF multigrade oil, Viscosity: 40-degrees F(5-degrees C) or above:20W40 or 10-degrees F(-10-degrees C) or below:10W30
Tyler Watts says: All these engines ask for is good oil and for it to be changed regularly. You can even use average off the shelf stuff from the service station (I'm not recommending it though) as long as you change it regularly. Regularly depends on your riding. Off-roading, hill climbing, overlanding etc would require more regular changes approx. 500-1,000 miles. Less strenuous riding like commuting could extend this. A good tip for knowing when to change the oil is if you're riding along sedately and just short-shifting through the gear box, you will notice the changes get more 'clunky' or stiff. It is simply the gearbox saying it's used all the good lubricating the oil can offer and would like some new oil... My engine had never been opened after 20,000miles, and was great. All that went wrong was a cylinder base gasket leaking, and then a nit on the end of the spanner putting the timing wrong and turning over the engine, ramming the piston into the intake valves... Otherwise, she is amazing and the mileage is loads higher now!
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Can I get a bash plate and frame guards for my TTR?
CRD no longer make these items but fortunately the Australian firm B&B Offroad Engineering do!
For bash plates in the
where a high quality bespoke bash plate is available.
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Need a grab handle for your
Dave Maddock has recently bought the "missing" LH (exhaust side) grab handle - part number was 4PX-F1275-00 - costs £58.08 inc VAT (as at February 2016).
The RH grab handle is part number 4GY-2127A-00 and was £46.21 inc. VAT retail as at February 2016.
Apparently the handles are part of the UK road-kit (along with a few other bits) and aren't listed on the fiche. The dealers have a separate booklet for these parts. The UK spec bikes should already have them fitted but most of the parallels and semi-official ones don't. The US models don't have the mounting brackets on the frame.
handles are available in the UK
TTR is fitted as standard with a gel-filled battery pre-filled with battery acid (GS Valve Regulated
Lead-acid battery) part number GT7B-4. The first letter (’G’, ’C’ or ’Y’)
denotes the motorcycle battery manufacturer & can be substituted for another
letter depending on the make of battery, for example: YT7B-4, CT7B-4, GT7B-4 are
all the same battery. They
about £30 on UK eBay (inc. VAT and delivery) as at August 2015.
Dimensions: 148mm long (along front) x 64mm wide x 90mm high, 12 volt, 6AH and approx 85 EN cold cranking amps.
In the UK, these were approx. £310 - not cheap - but are now sadly no longer available from Yamaha.
The only way possible now is to use a second-hand kickstart mechanism from another TTR engine - see http://ttr250.com/TTR_retrofitting_kickstart.htm
Kick start kit installation – by
Nik Codling 28/05/02
Having installed the Yamaha kick start kit for the TTR250 myself, I thought I’d share my experiences with others, and hopefully make the job slightly easier for anyone attempting it. First thing to note is that it can’t be that hard – I managed it ok, and it’s pretty straightforward!
The instructions that come with the kit are probably really good. I say probably, as it is more suited to those who have a good grip of Japanese, being as it is written entirely in said language! The Japanese language is visually very pretty, although my grasp of it is roughly equivalent to my grasp of female logic (very small!), although I did once try Sushi.
The instructions do have a few diagrams, which certainly give you the basic information to be able to complete the job, although there were a few occasions where I had to make a couple of guesses!
First job is to remove the right hand engine cover. You will probably find this is made easier by removing the brake pedal (just undo the pivot bolt) and the foot peg (two hex/Allen head bolts). The engine casing itself is retained by a number of hex (Allen) head bolts. You will also have to remove the oil banjo bolt above the oil filter.
A good idea when you remove these is to place them down on a clean surface, and lay them out in the order they came out – the bolts vary in length and it’s easy to mix them up otherwise. Of the three oil filter bolts you only need to remove the outermost one, although it’s a good opportunity to give the oil filter a clean while you’re at it.
Once all the engine cover bolts are out you can take the cover off, exposing the clutch assembly. It’s at this point that you discover whether you remembered to drain the oil or not! In my case I hadn’t, and some lovely new semi synthetic deposited itself on my garage floor!
In order to install the kick start assembly you need to remove the clutch assembly. This may seem scary to the amateur mechanic, but it’s pretty easy. The clutch plates are held in by six bolts, with a 10mm head. Slacken these all off a little bit at a time – try and undo them all evenly, and not one at a time, it puts less stress on the clutch basket that way.
Once the bolts are undone, you can withdraw that clutch plates in one go, complete with the clutch cover plate (not sure the correct term!) and the six bolts and springs. The clutch basket is retained by a large nut with a tab washer, and you’ll need a 27mm socket to undo it. Tap the tab washer out of the way, allowing access to the nut.
At this point you’ll need to prevent the engine from turning over, in order that you can undo the nut. A professional mechanic would have a device to hold the clutch basket, and prevent it from turning. A less scrupulous mechanic would insert the largest spanner they have through the back wheel, but I wouldn’t recommend this practice!!! Once the engine is held the nut is pretty easy to undo, and the basket can be withdrawn from the splined shaft.
Behind this is a large flywheel (again, not sure of proper name!), and this is retained by a castellated washer – remove this, and off comes the flywheel.
To the left of the flywheel is a small shaft, with a blanking piece on it, retained by a circlip. Remove the circlip and blanking piece. The shaft is then fitted with a circlip and washer, and one of the large gears supplied with the kit. This is held in place with a washer and circlip. Make sure you fit the gear the right way round (it should be obvious, depending on whether you can rotate it once fitted). Once this is in place you can re-fit the whole clutch assembly.
You might want to take this opportunity to inspect the clutch plates, and make sure they’re within spec (use Vernier calipers to measure the thickness of the friction material). When re-fitting the clutch bolts be careful not to over-tighten (refer to workshop manual for correct torque).
Next job is to fit the kick start “stop”. This consists of three small metal plates, which prevent the kick start shaft from being turned beyond a certain angle. You will find two threaded holes to the left of the clutch assembly that these are fitted to. Fit first the smallest “plain” plate, then the really thick one (ensuring that the big tab is pointing upwards), and finally the plate with the two tabs on it (with the tabs facing towards the left). Screw in the bolts to approx 10nM (i.e. not very tight – you really don’t want to strip the threads, but tight enough that they won’t undo) and bend up the tabs to help prevent the bolts undoing.
Next up, you need to fit the splined shaft that the kick start return spring hooks over. This goes into a hole towards the bottom, below where the kick start “stop” is. The hole isn’t splined, and you may feel as though it isn’t the right place. It is, it’s just that it needs a damn good whack to get it in there! I started off using a nylon-faced mallet, but ended up using a lump hammer in order to hit it hard enough to get it in the hole! Mind you don’t over-do it though, after all, most of the engine consists of softer aluminium/alloy parts. Try and hit the shaft square on the end, so that it doesn’t go in at a funny angle. Be careful not to put the shaft in all the way – leave about 2-3mm of the splines sticking out.
Now you need to assemble the kick start shaft itself. This is quite easy, and is illustrated in the instructions (refer to Shawn Crowell’s .jpg in the Yahoo Groups files area). First fit the big gear, and retain it with a washer and circlip. Then fit the “ratchet” – note the orientation as per the above jpeg. Next is the smaller spring, large spring-retaining washer, and a circlip to hold it all in place. A washer is then slipped over the top of the circlip, prior to installing the shaft.
At the other end of the shaft is the big kick start return spring. This is pretty straightforward, just hooking it in to the slot in the shaft flange. Within the spring sits the large, thick washer. This just sits in place and will be retained by the engine casing, once it's in place.
You can now insert the kick start shaft into the engine (make sure the washer is on the end of the shaft). It literally just sits in a circular recess. Once in place hook the kick start return spring over the splined shaft that you fitted earlier. It’s worth checking that the splined shaft is fitted to the correct depth, by checking how “square” the kick start return spring is sitting.
At this stage you may wish to make some adjustment to how much tension the kick start return spring has. As stated in the instructions, I felt it was a little weak - note the illustration showing the correct assembly of the ratchet piece, in conjunction with the kick start shaft flange. I therefore rotated the shaft assembly round by one spline, to give a little more pre-load to the spring. This is slightly tricky to explain, but becomes obvious once you trial fit the kick start shaft in place and try turning it by temporarily fitting the kick start lever.
Once this is done you’re ready to go about re-fitting the engine cover. First of all though, you need to remove the bung from the engine cover, in order for the kick start shaft to come through. I inserted an appropriately sized socket into the hole behind the bung, and gave it a whack, and out it popped.
You can now re-fit the engine cover, oil banjo bolt, brake lever and footpeg, and all that’s left is to fit the kick start lever, and off you go! The whole job shouldn’t take more than a couple of hours – I was being careful and it took about three hours, but someone more proficient/confident would be much quicker than that (and probably wouldn’t need this anyway!).
I’ve written this from memory, and I may well have missed stuff out, but I think that’s it!
A very useful thread on the TTR250 forum is worth looking at - see here.
Starter motors and the associated sprag (one-way) clutch seem to be a weak point on TTRs if excessive noise when cranking or banging when switching on/off is ignored. A worn sprag clutch will kick back on shut dwn and strip the teeth off the starter pinion. Replace the sprag clutch to save a much more expensive rebuild.
If you have leave it too long then, in addition to the stripped starter pinion, you may find that teeth on the starter gears are damaged and, in extreme situations, the generator cover will be cracked and start leaking oil.
As at October 2013, the UK price of a new casing is £220.92 inc VAT (part number 4GY-15411-02-00), the small idler gear is £103, large idler gear is £93.95, new flywheel bolts £4, and crankcase gasket £5.
A friend of mine, Adrian Harris, rebuilt a TTR starter, to replace the mangled
pinion gear, using an armature centre and good pinion from a more common Matsui
starter. Check out
Peter from France says he has found an easier solution than modifying an FZ600 starter! He says it is possible to use one from a Honda 125 NX (or Transcity) and all you have to do is change the rear cover - everything else is the same. Thanks Peter!
Starter brush plate and brushes - the Mitsuba kit part number is SM-13R and the kit can be found on eBay.
Starter motor brushes - the brushes for Honda TRX 250 300 350 440 450 500 quads fit and are advertised on eBay
See here for my own guide.
following guide is from Tim Woods - thanks Tim!
The repair was fairly easy, but I have been working on bikes as a hobby most of my life, I'm 45 now. The parts were under $70 (the one-way bearing costs £183 in UK - Oct 2013), and you will need a flywheel puller (Yamaha part number is 2K7-85555-00 - £8 in UK). The shop that I went to didn't have a puller in stock and they couldn’t find one in the after market catalogue. What I found that worked great is a spark plug thread cleaner made by KD tools part #730 it has a 18mm x 1.5mm on one end (that's the size needed for the flywheel) and a 14mm x 1.5mm on the other end, it's made from hardened metal. You will need an air impact to pull the flywheel; there is no way to hold the flywheel from turning if you use a socket wrench. (Andy Yates says "Soak components in WD40 or your favourite penetrating lubricant, stick the bike in gear, wedge a large lump of wood through the back wheel so it jams against the swing arm and cant rotate. Get someone to stand on the back brake. then stick a BFO length of scaffolding tube on your 1/2" breaker bar and apply force." At your own risk though folks!)
1 Drain the motor oil.
Here are the steps.
PS Also see here for my own guide.
Clutch plate information.
I recently fitted a new clutch. The "cork" or friction plates for both OE and blue models are 3XJ-16321-00-00 . The OE and Raid models need 6 and the blue model needs 7 plates.
The plain steel plates for the white and very early blue models are 3XJ-16324-00-00 (5 required) and the later blue models (6 required) are 3XJ-16324-01-00.
Don't forget to soak your new friction plates overnight in engine oil before fitting!
New clutch springs are 90501-23763-00 for the 6 plate clutch and 90501-23391-00 for the seven plate clutch. I believe the later springs are shorter.
All parts available here.
Beware if buying second-hand parts as the clutch basket and cover are different between white and blue models as they need to be wider and deeper on the blue models to accommodate the extra plates.
and refilling forks
Fork seals are the same size across the models - 43x55x9.5/10
All Balls kits are probably the easiest to source.
Check the fork bushing is OK before buying in your kit as, if there is wear, it is easy to renew the bushing whilst the forks are apart. A simple check is to get the TTR securely up on a stand with the front wheel off the ground. Grab both fork legs and see if there is any back and forth movement. Make sure that any movement isn't loose or worn steering head bearings though!
Oil type and capacity - Lance's Haynes manual says: Capacity: 555cc, Type: Yamaha fork oil "01" or equivalent, Oil Level: 130mm (fork fully compressed and spring removed). Some owners take the opportunity to use a heavier weight oil such as a 5 or 10 weight to give a slightly stiffer fork action.
guide on replacing TTR fork seals see:
Head stem bearing inspection or replacement.
Ideally this job should be done by 2 people.
Set bike up on stand with front wheel about 100mm off the ground. Pull off headlight cowling, undo the 3 bolts and pull forward headlight/speedo assembly, then unscrew speedo cable and unclip wiring, then remove the headlight/speedo assembly. (spraying a little CRC, RP7 or the like into the wiring clips doesn't hurt). Place a rag over the front mudguard as the handlebars and other bits will soon rest there. Keeping everything intact on the handle bars, just remove the 4 bolts and pull the bars forward and lay them on the front mudguard, all the wiring is long enough to accommodate this.
Next undo the 4 bolts holding the front indicators to the forks, lay these indicators also on the front guard, (once again the wiring is long enough.) Remove the main nut securing the top fork/head stem bracket, then using a large screw driver, pry open the fork clamps on the top fork/head stem bracket. This bracket can now be removed.
Place a block of wood under the front wheel so it is JUST supporting the weight. With one person standing in front of the wheel making sure it doesn't roll forward (it will want to very soon) remove clip/lock nut, main nut. The whole front fork assembly will want to roll forward at this point. Supporting the weight of the wheel, remove the front chock of wood and gently lower the wheel to the floor. As the whole thing wants to roll forward be careful not to damage the thread, the top bearing will pop out when the wheel is lowered.
The bottom bearing is now completely exposed so now both can be greased. One person can service the bearings while the other stops the wheel coming forward.
Replacement bearings are part number 93332-00078-00 but in the UK are about £40
if you order the genuine Yamaha parts else an
All Balls kit will do
When finished, lift the front wheel up (careful of the thread), place the wooden chock back under the wheel and install the top bearing and nuts (THIS IS A TWO PERSON JOB) then fit things back in reverse order of the way they came off. Fork pinch bolts - torque setting is 23Nm – the same as the handlebar clamp bolts. There you go, it sounds complicated but it is really quite simple and quick.
The spark plug gap for standard plug is 0.7 to 0.8mm
Off Road Only (ORO) do the Splitfire range of plugs for the bike, if you use either the CR8E or the CR9E then the equivalent Splitfire is either the 430B or C.
My 2002 and 2004 TTRs use NGK CR9E or Nippon Denso U27ESR-N plugs.
For a few quid extra it may be worth going for an Iridium plug - NGK IRIDIUM IX SPARK PLUG CR9EIX CR9E-IX 3521
The standard spark plug requires a 16mm spanner. Spark plug torque 12.5Nm.
here for plugs and plug caps.
a) Totally TTRs lowering link - see here
b) The Kouba lowering link - see here
a) There is a range of
workshop and owners manuals plus a parts catalogue available for download
b) In the UK, you can go to your Yamaha dealer with your frame number to get a bound photocopy of an English service manual (not the smaller owner's manual) - cost over £30.
c) There is a Haynes manual on: Yamaha Trail Bikes 1981-00 Haynes 2350, PW50/80, RT100/180, TT-R90, TT-R225, TT-R250, XT225, XT350. Available to Rides List members at a discount from Mike Husband at Merlin books - see here. Covers only the American spec TTR250 "play bike" but a UK TTR owner who bought it says its still very useful.
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The wheel bearing on the TTR250 are sealed. Replacing bearings can be a challenge until you get to know how they fit. The collars are press fit into the inner race of the bearings and you need a large drift or a press to get them out - be patient and careful!
Rear wheel takes
3 x 60/22 2RS size - 22x44x12 and oil seals for wheel 2 x 28x47x7.
Front wheel LEFT takes 1x 6003 2RS - size 17x35x10 and oil seal is 22x35x7.
Front wheel RIGHT takes 1x6202 2RS - size 15x35x11 and oil seal 20x35x5 (digital speedo models only - blue TTRs don't use a seal on the speedo drive side).
In UK, All Balls kits
(which include bearings and seals) area available
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Clutch inhibitor switch replacement
Totally TTRs in the UK can supply a replacement handlebar clutch inhibitor switch (part 44-022) that is not a direct replacement i.e. clip fitting different in clutch lever perch and the bullet connectors need cutting and soldering to the existing spade connectors but is less than half the price of the genuine Yamaha part (4GY-82917-01-0). See here.
Hasse Prefect says: The TTR has a sidestand switch, a neutral switch and a clutch lever switch. Both the sidestand switch and the clutch lever switch you should bypass, the sidestand may bounce as you go over whoops and then the engine will cut out, also the cables may rip when going through bushes and stuff. The clutch lever switch (according to Sod's law) will break down when you are very far from home and the sun is setting..... It is nice to have the neutral light but it is by no no means necessary, bodging the clutch lever and sidestand switches should be enough - following the rule that "if it is not there it can't break". 26 April 2007
Be warned that safety switches are there for a reason and a nasty accident could happen if you drive off with the sidestand down.
Adjusting the sag. Rear preload is set by having the
suspension full extended. At full extension, measure from the centre of the axle
to a point on the sub frame and note the distance. Next, with riding gear on,
load the suspension with your weight positioned on the bike in your normal
riding position. You might have to have someone assist you by keeping the bike
upright! Measure from the centre of the axle to the same point on the sub frame.
You should have about 100 mm less distance with the suspension loaded. Adjust
the preload on the spring until you get the 100 mm differential.
After getting the 100 mm sag, next check your static sag. This is how much the bike settles from full extension with just the weight of the bike. You should have approximately 35 mm free sag. If your free sag is considerably more or less than 35 mm, you probably will need to exchange the spring. Thanks to Jack Hixson for this piece.
Refurbishing a TTR rear shock absorber. The part number of the rear shock is 5GF-22210-00-P0 but a new one is very expensive so repairs are usually cost effective! In the UK, Justin Gibbs at Saltash offers a superb service. Click here for details. Justin is also able to alter the ride height of the shock absorber if required. A DIY approach is described here!
Parts for forks and shock. Race Tech sell rebuild parts for the front forks and the rear shock inc. the seal head, shock shaft bushing, bottom-out bumper, and reservoir bladder - click here for prices etc. Totally TTRs also now sell the seal head - see here
Rear shock absorber springs. Most are yellow indicating it is the standard spring but I have seen the stronger red springs on a few TTRs. Apparently there is also a white spring for lighter riders but I haven't seen one of those.
Rear suspension linkages. It is recommended that you check the rear suspension links occasionally to check all the seals are OK. If water gets in then you will have problems. The original Yamaha needle rollers have the poly lube type so don't need greasing as such.
A good tip is to WD40
the damper rod on the rear shock after power washing otherwise it could get rusty
and pitted which would damage the seal head and you
lose the damping - plus it's expensive to repair!
Swing arm bearings: All Balls do a swing arm repair kit ref 28-1096 which includes all of the above. About £35 inc. p&p in the UK here. Installation guide here.
Relay Arm bearings: In the UK, you can get an "All Balls" linkage bearing kit ref 27-1094 here which seems good value at £60 inc VAT and p&p especially as it includes the lower shock bearing. A pictorial guide to replacing the relay arm bearings is available here
More detailed information on bearing and seal part numbers courtesy of Kevin Baker.
Rear shock absorber bearings.
1. LOWER SHOCK BEARING
A pictorial guide to
changing the lower shock bearing
All Balls supply the bottom shock kit ref 17-8613 (or 29-5013) if you need to replace it.
If you have a good source of cheap bearings then the part number is GE14ES/K and the seals are "Clark Seals V5 18.5 x 26 x 2.7". All Balls advise to use waterproof grease or any good quality bearing grease.
The collars on the bottom bearing came out easily by levering them off with a wide blade screwdriver.
HOWEVER, it was not the same story with the top bearing collars - Yamaha part no 90387-100Y3-00 (cost £11.16 for both). These collars have very wide "flanges" and my first attempt at levering them off with the screwdriver broke a large section off the flange - after a struggle I managed to get both flanges off but destroyed them in the process! I have since successfully removed them in one piece by giving them a good soak of WD40 and then using a punch on the inside lip. Once one is out, the other is easily removed. The wire circlips are tricky unless you have a very fine screwdriver such as used for spectacle screws. It is possible to lever out the circlip just enough to get pliers on it or a bigger screwdriver behind it to get it out all the way. An easier alternative may be to drill or Dremel a groove in the shock body as far as the circlip to allow you to flip out the circlip with a sharp pick.
It isn't possible to source the top "spherical plain" shock bearing as it is a "special" - inside diameter (id) 12mm, outside diameter (od) 26mm, inner ring width (ir) 15cm, outer ring width (or) 13mm.. However, if you are prepared to compromise, it is possible to source alternatives. I used a GE12FO whose only difference is that the "or" is 9mm so it needed packing out. The alternative standard bearing has a slightly wider "ir" at 16cm and I do wonder whether I should have used this one and perhaps found a way to take 0.5mm off each side. The Yamaha part number for their seals is 38V-22211-00-00.
Since doing my repair, a much better alternative has come onto the market - see here
a Scott's Steering Damper on a '99. This article is courtesy of Paul
Garlick - thanks Paul!.
I had the reaction post welded to the frame by a professional, but since I installed my unit I have seen a lot of Scott's dampers installed with the reaction post bolted or clamped to the frame. This makes it a DIY. job and the riders said they hadn't had problems with the post working loose. Personally I like the added integrity of the weld.
I installed Renthal Jimmy Button bend h/bars so that the
damper would fit under the cross-bar. I left the settings stock for the first
several rides (Scott recommends this), eventually I increased the low speed
damping resistance one or two clicks. I haven't adjusted the arc (steering
angle) limits, the damper has adjustable arc limits to minimize arm pump.
If you put the bike up on a stand you can feel the
resistance when you swing the handlebars through their travel. It's not much.
One of the sales features of the Scott's unit is that it has low speed and high
speed damping circuits. It's the low speed side you can feel. The more low speed
damping you wind in then the less effective the high speed circuit becomes.
Clogging of front sprocket on white TTRs. It gets pretty tiresome removing the cover every time the bike gets near any dirt just to clean it out. Johnny Davies has modified the cover to allow mud etc to escape rather than build up into a nice compacted lump around the front sprocket - pictures in the Files area of the TTR250 Yahoo Group - in the "sprocket cover pics" folder. Looks simple but effective. An alternative is the bespoke alloy cover here
Smartening up your TTR
It is possible to buy reasonably priced good quality replacement decals for your Open Enduro or plastic-tanked blue TTR. Karl Barker of D&D Graphics has produced some cracking designs. On request D&D will amend the kits to show the TTR250.com web address. I have had these on my TTR for a while now and they fit well and are still looking very good. They are well perforated so there is minimal bubbling and any that do appear can be easily squeezed out. D&D now have graphics available for the WR250R/X and newer DT125R models. Contact Karl Barker, D&D Graphics UK, email: firstname.lastname@example.org , new website at www.ddgraphics.co.uk
Karen Bunker has found another
I have had sets of their graphics and seat covers and the quality is superb. Thanks Karen!
Clint Smith says "The graphics are made in the USA and are very good quality"
Seat covers. In the UK they are available here.
Replacement for tail
light and number plate holder (applies to UK)
Stainless steel tail tidies are available here.
Replace those big indicators! I tend to fit a set of Motrax Micro Fairing indicators (Part number for the amber ones is FM1) to all my TTRs. Click here to see pic.
The early "white" TTRs frame paint colour is Yamaha Deep Violet Blue.
A friend got some made up for a later OE model by RS Bike Paint and they call it "Yamaha 16590 French Blue".
Using the information here it may be possible to get your local motor factors paint shop to make you up some on their mixing machine for the plastic-tanked TTRs. I can't find the metal-tanked models listed on their site.
In Australia try Color Rite.
For the later blue
plastic-tank models, Dupli-Color sell a closely matching aerosol - DSSB09 Blue
Mica (Subaru). Thanks to Les Chant in OZ for that info!
Bubbling decals solution - see Gary Pollard's solution
You can't get after market plastic for the TTR except an MX style rear fender. You can put any aftermarket YZ/WR front fender on it though - just cut off about an inch in the back.
I know it is a matter of personal taste but I think black gaiters look a whole lot better on the "white" TTRs than the purple or pink ones. I have tracked down some after-market ones and they are Pro Grip PG2510 ref 2636511 and fit 42/45 - 60 forks. Cost about £16 - available in blue or black from Totally TTRs and other bike shops.
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TTR250 - Street
Legal in California? (Courtesy of Tommy Vee)
I recently legalized my TTR in California. Baja designs would be glad to sell you a complete kit to convert your bike but I just ordered the parts that I needed since the head and tail lights are dual filament bulbs (high beam and brake lights) and the bike already has an adequate battery and charging system. You can purchase the turn signals from a local bike shop such as Cycle Gear. Baja Designs supplied the turn signal/ headlight switch (p/n 12-9005), the turn signal flasher, and the horn. I made up my own wiring harnesses but if you are not able to set up your own, I'm sure that Baja designs would be able to supply the wiring kit also. Be sure to ask Baja for the turn signal wiring diagram for their switch. For the brake lights, I bought a hydraulic brake light switch from the local bike shop. The switch replaces the Banjo bolt on the rear hydraulic master cylinder. Once you have all of the lights brakes and turn signals and horn set up, check around with the local repair shops as the bike shops will do the brake and light inspection not the CHP. Call your local CHP office and get a copy of form CHP 888 as the DMV will ask you if you have read the form and you must certify that your bike complies with the requirements. Buy some insurance and rip that green sticker off so you can turn it in at DMV. Call the brake and light station and find out what they will check for. Remember to install a high beam indicator light. I bought a 12-volt mini lamp (blue) from Radio Shack and tie wrapped it to the front brake line guide ring next to the trip meter. Baja was very helpful you can get their 800 number from their website and call their technical services dept. If you are pretty good with wiring it should be a piece of cake. Good luck. TV
Got a brand new TTR?
A mate imported a pair of Euro TTRs and they arrived in a crate with no information as to their preparation. Here are some tips that I found through the internet and from practical experience:
try and read the manual to get to know the bike
check and tighten any loose spokes - continue to check the spokes periodically to ensure proper tightness
remove front and rear axles and coat with a high quality grease or copper based "Anti-Seize".
check header pipe (rear end) for restrictor washer and remove if found!
if you can face it, dismantle and re-grease rear suspension linkages before you use the bike - else you will never do it!
dismantle and check kick start, rear brake pivot and steering head, to make certain they contains sufficient grease in all the bearings
the foot pegs have a particularly high tooth on the outside which is just right to catch in and tear your leggings - file them down
take off the tyres and put them back into store for when you need to sell the bike - put on some decent rubber that suits the conditions YOU ride in
Get to know the bike, as far as how it is put together. Do this by removing the plastics, fuel tank, and whatever else you feel like doing; the more the better. It is likely that many bolts, nuts, etc. will be loose, or just not tight enough. Loose bolts can be/will be discovered while removing the plastic, etc - check all nuts and bolts and fittings for tightness and re-check regularly.
On new bikes, some riders hear a strange tinny rattling or metallic whistling noise from the left-hand side of the engine on the over-run i.e. when you shut off the throttle in any gear. Steve Copsey tells us that the reason for this is that where the chain is new and tight it doesn't slip off the front sprocket as smoothly as it should and bends outwards as it leaves the lower edge. Basically it rubs against the lower section of the case-saver - take this cover off and you will see the rub mark. The answer is to file about a millimetre off and the noise will magically disappear.
Fuller information on the TTR250 Raid
Brake Horse Power 33 BHP
Engine type 249cc, 4-stroke single, DOHC air-cooled
Starter Electric start and optional kickstarter
Seat Height 875mm
Dry Weight 120 kg
Economy 47km/litre at 60 kmph
Petrol tank capacity 16 litre
Tyre - Front 3.00 - 21 51P
Tyre - Rear 4.60 - 18 63P
Brakes Hydraulic single disc front and rear
Chain DK428VS3 134
Battery GT7B 12V 7AH
Sparking plug CR8E, U24ESR-N
Sparking plug - alternative CR9E, U27ESR-N
Bore x stroke 73.0 x 59.6
Engine oil 1.0 litre
Fork oil 625cc per leg
Carb bore 30mm
Carb float level 7.5 ~ 9.5
Main jet 145
Pilot jet 50
Needle clip Position 3
Idle RPM 1300 4 ~ 6% CO2
Valve clearance - In 0.09 ~ 0.17mm
Valve clearance - Ex 0.19 ~ 0.27mm
Further TTR links:
Servicing the TTR250 - a step-by-step guide - courtesy of Andy Drysdale - thanks Andy!
Simple step-by-step pictorial guides:
http://ttr250.activeboard.com/ - a busy one make/model forum for TTR250 owners and enthusiasts to exchange questions,
answers, information, and advice.. Any one is welcome
to talk about dirt and trail bikes, SuperMoto (?) TTR250s, tuning, racing, maintenance,
practice tracks, trails, events, and any other TTR250 - stuff.
http://www.totallyttrs.com/ - "Totally TTRs" - an invaluable web page totally dedicated to TTR250 owners looking for parts (new and second hand) and accessories
TTR Heaven! (Or trail riding in the Andalucian Mountains) - A tale of my trail riding adventure with ToroTrail in September 2007. Sadly the TTRs were made redundant but ToroTrail found worthy replacements in the Yamaha WR250R.
http://ttr250.activeboard.com/ - a busy one make/model forum for TTR250 owners and enthusiasts to exchange questions,
answers, information, and advice.. Any one is welcome
to talk about dirt and trail bikes, SuperMoto (?) TTR250s, tuning, racing, maintenance,
practice tracks, trails, events, and any other TTR250 - stuff.
Ride Limousin - Road and Off Road Motorcycle Holidays in France - recommended! Torsten and Rowena are great hosts and Torsten has a small fleet of TTR250s to hire out.
A little extra pressie at Xmas? A nice little 1:18 scale die cast model TTR250
is available from Hachette in issue 14 of their Mega Bikes fortnightly series -
cost a measly £4.99. Obtainable from their Customer Service Hotline - 0870
7297290 (Mon - Fri 9am-5pm). See a pic of the Maisto model here.
Also, it's worth looking on e-Bay as well as there always seems to be a few
models for sale there - got a nice blue one from e-Bay myself only recently!
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TTR250 FAQ compiled by Brian Sussex, Devon, UK
Please ask any questions on the TTR250 forum - http://ttr250.activeboard.com/ What's in the FAQ above is the total knowledge I have acquired to date!
Click on house for my Home Page if you came directly to this page - the site is mostly off-road stuff
http://www.totallyttrs.com/ - everything you need (possibly!) for your TTR250
http://www.ttr250.com/ - all you ever wanted to know about TTR250s
http://ttr250.activeboard.com/ - the forum for TTR250 owners